Maison Martin Margiela Autumn Winter 2011

Maison Martin Margiela Autumn Winter 2011

A very disappointing Autumn Winter 2011 collection by Maison Martin Margiela. While we normally expect the unexpected, a strange idea pushed to its limits through fabric and shape, this time we were subjected to a show full of uninteresting garments and commercial pieces. And the word commercial spells death for Margiela, as the brand’s founding ideals were nothing near commercial

Maison Martin Margiela Autumn Winter 2011

Nina Ricci Autumn Winter 2011

Nina Ricci Autumn Winter 2011

Nina Ricci Autumn Winter 2011

I’ve used the term “prettiness with an edge” to describe two chosen looks of this Nina Ricci collection, which sums up a huge part of the show. But there is also the super soft, feminine pieces which are very beautiful as well. The models had slightly messy hair and hands in their pockets, which gave this show, which could have looked stuffy, a very effortless-pretty look.

Nina Ricci Autumn Winter 2011

Balenciaga Autumn Winter 2011

Balenciaga Autumn Winter 2011

Balenciaga Autumn Winter 2011

Usually I look at the Balenciaga show and try and to figure out what is going on, followed by the resignation that I’ll never truly understand what is going on. But this show was different. For starters, it was beautiful, and not in a I-need-to-think-about-this-for-five-hours beautiful way, but in a bold-interesting-great-silhouettes-I-want-this way. The show reminds me of what made Nicolas Ghesquiere famous, the strange shapes and strong pieces made from unusual materials are what revived the Balenciaga brand in the first place.

Balenciaga Autumn Winter 2011

Ann Demeulemeester Autumn Winter 2011

Ann Demeulemeester Autumn Winter 2011

Ann Demeulemeester doesn’t really seem to work on seasons (although I suppose her Autumn Winter shows features more outerwear), she just does what she does, over and over again. I love what she does, but I guess if you didn’t like it, then there was no chance of ever liking one of her collections.

Ann Demeulemeester Autumn Winter 2011

Ann Demeulemeester Autumn Winter 2011

Givenchy Autumn Winter 2011

Givenchy Autumn Winter 2011

Givenchy Autumn Winter 2011

Givenchy Autumn Winter 2011

Seeing this Givenchy collection puts fear into my heart. Fear that Ricardo Tisci may be in line for the Dior throne. Surely he will have to get rid of the tacky sweatshirts with motifs, if he is to succeed Galliano? Other than the scary motifs, there really was nothing special. A few nice prints, but mostly used on tacky bomber jackets. Generally a disappointment. How can he be so good at couture, and so rubbish at ready-to-wear?

Givenchy Autumn Winter 2011

Hermès Autumn Winter 2011

Hermès Autumn Winter 2011

Christophe Lemaire’s first collection as design (or creative?) director at Hermes has been overshadowed by fashion week’s big dramas. I like that he has added his sporty handwriting to the collection, but has not taken it too far from what Jean Paul Gaultier did, there is still a bit of fantasy present in the show. I won’t say I loved it, there were a few too many parkas for my liking, the way he used the leather was tacky at times, and some of the shapes weren’t exactly chic, but I think Hermes has made the right decision. Give Lemaire a few seasons to get settled, and I think he will do very well for them.

Hermès Autumn Winter 2011

Hermès Autumn Winter 2011

Comme des Garcons Autumn Winter 2011

Comme des Garcons Autumn Winter 2011

When I was in Dover Street Market a few weeks ago, I was eyeing a pair of Comme des Garcons shoes. They were flat shoes, with a giant knot in the place of laces. They appeared to be the perfect winter to spring transition shoe for a pregnant woman trying to avoid heels. But then I looked at the tags. Sure, £350 is a lot for a pair of shoes, but I don’t expect things to come cheaper than that at Dover Street Market. But then I realised that they were not made of leather. Pleather shoes for £350 is a total rip off (take note, Stella McCartney) and a surprising choice of material for a shoe that would be best worn without socks.
But I think that shoe sums up what Comme des Garcons is about. It just doesn’t make sense. Sure, there are elements of luxury, like the fabrics (sometimes) and the price, but there are also elements, like the designs, that make you wonder why on earth you should be paying designer clothing prices for something that looks like a mess? Or is blatantly not worth the price? I guess that explains why Comme des Garcons makes most of their money off their wallets and perfume rather than their clothing.

Comme des Garcons Autumn Winter 2011

Comme des Garcons Autumn Winter 2011

Haider Ackermann Autumn Winter 2011

Haider Ackermann Autumn Winter 2011

Haider Ackermann Autumn Winter 2011

I guess I just love the aesthetic of Haider Ackermann (like I love the aesthetic of Lanvin) and therefore it is hard for me to identify any weaknesses. This collection shows off his amazing ability to wrap, drape, and deconstruct, resulting in a collection that is super powerful, chic, edgy and sexy. This does reaffirm my thoughts that he wouldn’t be a very good successor at Chanel, however I could see him at Givenchy, Yves Saint Laurent, or Lanvin, if we are talking about moving people around.